The generator was mounted. The air conditioner and all the topsoil have been loaded on the trailer for storage. The whole thing was covered with a tarp after it was relocated to the backyard. I feel so defeated not getting further this summer with the motion tests… hopefully if we get one more nice day I can do a final test (using generator power to boot).
While playing Halo 4 on the XBox 360 the TV would turn off randomly every 2 to 8 minutes. I would simply press the power button and it would come back on and stay on for another 2 to 8 minutes.
http://www.ehow.com/how_8535412_upgrade-firmware-vizio-television.html
I contacted Vizio because I could not find the M550SV on the list of firmware downloads. So far they have been worthless with automated replies. I chatted with a representative this morning that informed me that techsupp@vizio.com aren’t really technicians and the online registration process through the TV doesn’t send the freaking serial number (the first piece of information they ask for every time you call).
Another shameless plug for Just Answer: http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/67whx-vizio-model-m550sv-tv-playing-ps3-no-reason.html
I tried this procedure yesterday (although I have read on Fix Ya that the duration to hold the power button is 3 minutes instead of 10 seconds). It stayed up for a couple of hours but rebooted (hopefully and presumably after the firmware update was downloaded and installed automatically). Hopefully it is on until I turn it off now!
Bought a retaining ring tool from Home Depot for $22 in the wrench section.
Had to remove my NPT connections as they keep you from removing the cylinder ends. Squeeze the tool and move the ring away from all edges and pull up I needed three hands.
Packing kit is universal. Of all the parts included I only needed the O-rings for the rod, 2 ends, and piston along with the new sleeve bearing for the rod.
One down, one more to do. I am picking up a replacement U-joint today fit the one I broke.
We rented one of these from Thrifty to drive from Fort Lauderdale to Key West and back.
Lots of power – it feels like it is turbo-charged when you demand passing power. But in ECO mode it sips gas (the ECO light would go off if you depress the accelerator enough). I think it held about 16 gallons and we were able to drive from Fort Lauderdale to South Beach to Islamorada with a couple of little trips to restaurants in between. We made it all the way to Key West and then back to the 7 mile bridge before we had to stop for gas.
Extremely smooth shifting. Responsive steering. Accelerator pedal is very sensitive.
Moderate road noise – not as loud as an Dodge Durango SUV but not as quiet as a Hyundai Sonata sedan.
ECS was probably my chief complaint as the AC would freeze us one second and then get too hot the next even though we don’t adjust the dial. However, when you demand power from the engine it cuts off the accessories. Brilliant!
I missed not having automatic doors but when the vehicle was level they basically close themselves with the same effort to pull the handle on a regular door.
Folding third-row seats was awkward at first but we got the hang of it pretty quick.
The standard back-up sensors were a life-saver, I almost backed into a sign!
Excellent wet weather handling.
Overall if we were looking for the best bang for the buck on a new minivan I would definitely consider the Kia Sedona. These South Korean companies really know their stuff!
Definitely need the packing kits for these actuators. They are leaking like a sieve!
M2d is installed. From the factory they come set for 0 to +10 VDC with the closed position at +5 VDC – I had to change the DIP switches after I had it installed (note for future installations) to work with -10 VDC to +10VDC so that 0 VDC is our closed position. One question is whether or not that 0 VDC can be “floating” for short periods of time.
I didn’t have any weight on the platform (only 380 pounds) but because of the leaking I couldn’t continue with the tests. However, when the pressure in the actuator exceeded 30 PSI or so the seal “locked” and it was quite strong – all my might I couldn’t get it to budge (which is really promising).
Beefed up the bottom frame with two of those angle braces for each roll actuator and an extra 2.5″ of wood mostly to raise the actuator up.
Roll actuator U-joints are upgraded with coupler nuts (much cheaper than the 3/4-10 rod clevis route).
Waiting for the weather to improve and waiting to get some free time so I can install these bad boys. I got the 24VDC PSU from China and tested it so I will be installing him permanently in the avionics compartment when I take the topsoil off again to access the right roll actuator U-joint bolt.
Not sure what I am doing with the springs yet… not sure if these beefy actuators will fit up the middle now!
Bidding on an 5850 Eyefinity 6 card so that I can test the frustums, angle offsets, stencils, etc over the winter. Waiting for an answer from ATI about the 2×2 plus 2 extended configuration (mixed mode).
First, I apologize for this “focus” effect – my camera was in a weird setting.
Side by side you see the F-4 (Mk.7H) left and F-8 (Mk.7F) right. The only difference is the inertial reel charge attaches to four holes on the left side when looking from the front.
I measured down 3 3/8″ from the top for the first row of holes…
And 7 1/2″ for the second row of holes.
Then from the left the top two holes are 2 3/4″ and 3 1/4″
And measured from the inside was 2 3/4″ and 4″ respectively.
Finally, the hole size is 1/4″
Removed the old right-side actuator (bottom) and was measuring the difference in length (the old one was 21″, the new one is 18″ but the difference because of the tang is 2.5″). The new ones are 3″ bore (the old ones are 1.5″ bore) which will yield 4x the force thanks to our friend pi*r²!
